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Written by Richard McCuistian   
Saturday, 22 December 2007

Safety First!!! 

Use common sense!

Stay clear of moving parts.

Never remove the radiator cap or a hose when the cooling system is hot. 

Never get underneath a jacked up vehicle unless it is properly supported.

Warning Indicators and dipsticks - Understanding Your Engine’s Basic Needs

“Check Engine” and “Service Engine Soon” lights will be covered at the end.

 

 

Fluids

 a)                Engine Oil – type and service intervals

A large amount of heat is created during engine operation. The heat created between some moving parts is so great that an internal combustion engine cannot operate for long before damage will occur. The lubrication system provides a steady supply of pressurized oil to the moving parts of the engine. Lubrication reduces friction heat and keeps parts from wearing against each other. Oil also helps cool the engine, wash away dirt and debris, and reduce noise.

The major components of the lubrication system include:

  • Oil pan
  • Oil strainer
  • Oil pump
  • Oil filter
  • Oil seals
  • Dipstick
  • Oil pressure indicator
  • Sealing materials

MOTOR OIL


 

Today's motor oils are made from naturally occurring crude oil (petroleum) or from man-made chemical compounds (synthetics). Some motor oils are made from both and are called partial synthetics.

Motor oils are categorized according to SAE viscosity classes as defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Viscosity is an expression of the ability of a fluid to flow or move. A thick oil at a given temperature does not flow as quickly as a thinner oil at the same temperature, therefore the thicker oil will have a higher viscosity number. Oils are graded according to their viscosity in relation to ambient temperature. Viscosity is an indication of the characteristics of an oil at a given temperature. The viscosity information says nothing about the quality of the oil.

The familiar designations for Motor Oil such as 5W, 10W, 20W, and so on, simply relate to the viscosity of the oil at a specific temperature.

There are single grade oils and multigrade oils in use today in internal combustion engines. A single grade oil is an oil which performs to its grade through the entire range of temperature. A multigrade oil is an oil which performs differently cold than when it is hot. A multigrade oil can be made to act like a thin oil when cold temperatures tend to thicken liquids and act like a thick oil when hot temperatures tend to thin liquids. Multigrade oils are also called multi-viscosity oils.

SAE numbers tell the temperature range that the oil will lubricate best. An SAE 10 classified oil lubricates well at low temperatures but becomes thin at high temperatures. An SAE 30 classified oil lubricates well at mid-range temperatures but becomes thick at low temperatures. Multigrade oils cover more than one SAE viscosity number. Their designations include the two viscosity numbers that the oil has met. For example, SAE 10W30 oil meets the requirements of a 10 weight oil for cold start and cold lubrication, and the requirements of a 30 weight oil for mid temperature lubrication.

Oil circulates through the engine as follows:

  • The oil in the oil pan is drawn up through the oil strainer by the oil pump. The strainer filters out large particles.
  • Oil flows through the oil filter, which filters smaller particles of dirt and debris.
  • From the oil filter, the oil flows into the main oil passage (or gallery) in the cylinder block.
  • From the main gallery, oil flows through smaller passages to the camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, and other moving parts. Oil holes and jets direct the flow of oil to critical parts, such as bearings and pistons.
  •  As the oil lubricates the surfaces of moving parts, it is constantly pushed off by new oil.
  •  The oil drips from the lubricated surfaces back into the oil pan. In many engines, an oil cooler is used to cool the oil before the oil is drawn back through the oil strainer to repeat the cycle.

Oil drips off the moving parts into the oil pan. A pump draws the oil from the pan, through a strainer, and forces it under pressure through a filter. After filtering, the oil passes to the lubricating points in the cylinder head and the cylinder block. A pressure relief valve in the oil pump ensures that oil pressure does not exceed engine oil pressure specifications.

Full pressure is used to pump oil through the main oil gallery. Oil from the main gallery lubricates the crankshaft main bearings, connecting rod bearings, camshaft, and hydraulic valve lifters (if equipped). In other parts of the engine, the volume is reduced as oil flows through smaller passages. Pushrod ends and rocker arms receive reduced pressure lubrication.

The lubricating oil in the engine is subjected to great stresses from temperature and contamination. The oil must retain its lubricating ability at temperatures of up to 150° C (300º F).

Oil coolers are sometimes used to keep engine oil from getting too hot. Oil coolers transfer heat from oil to the outside air or to engine coolant. The oil is also subjected to chemical stresses from combustion gases, dust, metal particles from wear, and combustion residues. The high temperature and contaminants reduce the ability of the oil to perform well and lead to the formation of sludge.

The engine oil dipstick is used to measure the level of oil in the oil pan. One end of the dipstick dips into the top of the oil reservoir, and the other end has a handle so it can be pulled out easily. The end that dips into the oil pan has a gauge on it that shows whether oil should be added to the engine.

Note: It’s important to keep the oil level above the "MIN" line at all times. The crankcase should never be overfilled or allowed to drop too low. Too much oil may permit the crankshaft to contact the oil and churn it until it turns to foam. The oil pump cannot pump foam, and foam will not lubricate. Low oil levels can result in excessively high oil temperatures, which may lead to bearing failure. An oil level that is too high or too low can also increase oil consumption. Consult the Owner's Manual for the correct oil capacity and recommended oil.

Oil Change Intervals: Assuming 5 quarts of oil in a particular engine will last 3,000 miles, then 4 quarts in that same engine will break down at about 1,500 miles!

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS:

The instrument panel usually has some type of oil pressure indicator that warns the driver when the lubrication system cannot maintain the oil pressure needed by the engine. This indicator may be a gauge or a warning light.

Automatic Transmission Fluid 

- Service every 30,000 miles (or as owner’s manual specifies) and use prescribed fluid. Service more often if vehicle has been towing heavy loads.  Some of the newest automatic transmissions don’t have dipsticks, so you might not be able to check your own fluid level. (a 99 Cavalier equipped with the 4T40E transaxle is one example) The owner’s manual will say so if there is no dipstick.  In the photo below, the red part is just a filler cap. There is an oil level hole with a threaded plug in the side of the transmission. Some transmissions in foreign makes (like the SLK230 Mercedes) don't have a dipstick for the owner to check the oil - the technicians at the dealership have a special dipstick they use, but first they have to break a plastic part on the cap that covers the dipstick tube.

More and more vehicles are coming without dipsticks and require special procedures for checking and adding transmission oil.  Once again, consult your owner's manual.

 

If the transmission has a dipstick (sometimes they’re hard to find, but they’re usually somewhere at the back of the engine in rear wheel drive cars or at the driver side of the engine on front wheel drive vehicles), pull the dipstick out and wipe it off before checking the oil. Next, have a look at the stick. On some vehicles the type of fluid and the necessary gear position (Park or Neutral) required will be stamped on the dipstick. 

Always check automatic transmission fluid with the engine running and warm, but be very careful not to burn yourself.  If in doubt, let your technician check the fluid.  

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS:

Not all automatic transmissions have warning indicators, but some Electronic transmissions may flash the overdrive (OD or 'Tow Haul') light or a light that looks like a hollow gear with an exclamation point inside. GM cars may have a “Service Vehicle Soon” light (more later on that)  Have the vehicle checked by a service professional if either is the case. Transmission shift quality may be different when the transmission warning indicator is flashing or illuminated.

   Brake Fluid 

 Most cars use Dot 3 brake fluid (as opposed to Dot 4 or Dot 5, which is silicone based but prone to foam in ABS systems), and if your vehicle has 4 wheel antilock brakes, the fluid should actually be replaced each time the pads are changed, but most service outlets will balk if you ask them to change the brake fluid.  If they agree, make sure they pump all the old fluid through the system rather than simply replacing what’s in the reservoir.

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS:

Every car has a red brake warning light. The red brake warning light is supposed to illuminate when the park brake is applied, but it can also mean that the brake fluid level is low.  If the red brake warning light comes on and the park brake isn’t applied, check the fluid level, and pay particular attention to the way the brake pedal feels:  If the fluid level is okay and the warning indicator is illuminated have your technician check for brake problems.   If your ABS light (usually a yellow light) is illuminated, the red brake light may also be illuminated; one can easily be the cause of the other, since the red brake light is also connected to the ABS system.  When the ABS light is illuminated, the ABS system will not operate (you might skid in a panic stop), but the service brakes will still work normally.  Have the vehicle checked if the ABS light comes on.

Power Steering  Use Power Steering fluid when possible. Even if the owner’s manual calls for ATF, Power Steering Fluid is still a safe bet. 

No warning indicators here. Some power steering systems provide power brake assist, but that’s generally on older GM diesel cars and heavy duty pickup trucks.  Don't let the folks at the fast lube places sell you a power steering system flush or anything else that isn't manufacturer recommended - if you need it, it'll be in the owner's manual maintenance section - anything else is a waste of money.

 

 Washer Fluid

Use washer fluid with alcohol in the winter so the washer fluid wont’ freeze and burst the reservoir. 

 

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS

 

 

No big deal; if your washer fluid light comes on, just pick up a gallon, make sure you’re pouring it in the right place, and fill ‘er up.

 

 Anti-Freeze (coolant), belts and hoses  Change every 30,000 regardless of owner’s manual recommendations; the orange coolant needs changing just as regularly as the green. The coolant protects the inside of the engine block and prevents rust and corrosion.  If the coolant in your engine is rusty looking, it’s time to have it changed.   As for coolant hoses, pay attention to any that seem to be deformed.   
 Never open a hot cooling system. Check the coolant with the engine cool and NOT running.  Try to squeeze the upper radiator hose to see if it has pressure before removing the cap.  If the hose is pressurized don’t remove the cap!         

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS:

Coolant level lights may look like a little radiator, or they may say something like “low coolant.”   Temperature warning indicators usually look like a thermometer or they may say “Temp” (temperature).   Some coolant level senders are checking more than the coolant level; late model GM cars have a $50 sensor in the radiator that checks the percentage and quality of the coolant, so if you’ve added clear water OR straight coolant to the cooling system on your 2001 Buick, you might see a light that won't go away even if the radiator is full.    

A light that looks like a battery may come on if the belt is slipping badly, off the pulleys, or broken.  Don’t keep driving if that light comes on because the belt that pulls the generator might also be the one that drives the water pump.

 

 

Manual Transmission Oil 

Some manual transmissions use Automatic Transmission Fluid. Some use 50 weight oil and some use 90 weight oil.  The type of oil varies from car to car. Make sure the right kind is used. No warning indicators apply. Watch for leaks, though; running a manual transmission dry of fluid can destroy gears and bearings in short order!   

 No warning indicators for Manual Transmssion oil - just watch for leaks and listen for noise. Axle oil (obviously found only on rear wheel or four wheel drive vehicles) almost never needs changing unless problems occur with the gears or seals in the differential, but should be checked regularly. No dipsticks, just an oil level hole in the rear or side of the unit. No warning indicators apply but once again, watch for leaks!  Four wheel drive vehicles have a differential in the front and in the rear. No warning indicators here.   Differential Axle oil  almost never needs changing unless problems occur with the gears or seals in the differential, but should be checked regularly.  But HEY, if you drive a Toyota Camry or a Corolla with an automatic transaxle, make sure you understand that the differential oil is contained in a different chamber than the transmission fluid!  Even if your dipstick shows full, get your mechanic to raise the car and check the differential oil level! No dipsticks on the differential, just an oil level hole in the rear or side of the unit. No warning indicators apply but once again, watch for leaks!  Four wheel drive vehicles have a differential in the front and in the rear. No warning indicators here.  Just watch for leaks on the pavement and listen for noise. 

Driveline necessities (Drive axles, sometimes called CV axles)

 

The purpose of a transmission is to modify the force of the engine’s rotational force, (called ‘torque,’) and transfer it to the vehicle’s drive axle through a driveshaft with flexible couplings called ‘U-joints’ or ‘CV joints.’ The transmission also allows the vehicle to be operated in reverse. Automatic transmissions have many design variations.

 

Front wheel drive vehicles have constant velocity (CV) joints (see above photo) that are packed with grease and protected with accordion style boots that can split and allow grease to get out and dirt to get in.  Most shops don’t replace just the boots any more, though.  The entire axle usually costs less than $100 and comes with new boots and remanufactured CV joints.  It may be hard for you as a consumer to see the boots, but make sure your service technician has a look when he or she is changing your oil.    What you can do to keep your driveline healthy 

Keep fluids checked, topped and changed. Don’t overfill.  Don’t make jackrabbit starts or pull loads heavier than the vehicle is designed to handle.  If you do pull heavy loads, make sure to have the transmission serviced more frequently, since automatic transmission oil begins to get gummy and burned if the transmission is worked harder.

Have all oil and/or fluid leaks fixed as soon as possible.  Have your CV joint boots checked every time the engine oil is changed and have any necessary repairs made as soon as possible.  Report any popping or clicking noises heard while turning; CV joints sound like that when they’re wearing out, but in most cases, if the boots remain in good shape, the CV joints will last the life of the vehicle.

 

 

 

Tires, Wheels, and Alignment

Tire Cross Section.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tire Tread Wear marks.jpg

 

 

Tread wear indicators – This tire is worn out

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pay close attention to your tires; the one in the picture shows normal wear.  Keep an air gauge handy; tire pressure should be checked monthly and any tire that appears to be low may have a slow leak. Check your spare tire regularly!

Cars that are stored in hot garages seem to need the tire pressure adjusted more regularly than cars parked on an open driveway.  Low tire pressure (under inflation) will cause tires to wear on the outside edges, while over inflated tires will wear more toward the center of the tread.  Since the front tires work so hard to steer the vehicle, the tires should be rotated every time the engine oil is changed for optimum tread life.  Radial tires will sometimes separate and cause strange wobbly drive symptoms or rumparumparumpa noises.  Abnormal tire wear generally means you need to have the alignment checked.

Use your jack and lug wrench to practice changing a tire on your own vehicle in your driveway (it needs to be level concrete or level hard packed dirt) so you’ll know you have everything you need and where the stuff is found on the car 

 

 

More to Come

Last Updated ( Friday, 22 August 2008 )
 
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