ok, there are developments:
i followed instructions to check the cam shaft sensor:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a9b14
the distributor connector has 3 wires. i assumed the middle wire was ground and the 2 outer wires were the power wires (blue and white as they are given in the repair guide). the colors of the wires in my car are orange, black and yellow, in that order. Also, i am not sure why the guide says to put voltmeter in AC rather than DC, but i followed it anyways.
wires in the back of distributor connector give no voltage when ignition is ON (should read 5V). i tried voltage between power wires and their corresponding PCM (ECU) wire (C16 and C5). I read very low voltage, less then 1V with ignition ON.
I measured continuity between C16 and C5 and ground lead on battery and it has no continuity (infinite resistance). i dont have a way of running an ODB I diagnostic.
the results make sense with the following explanation:
bad computer or wiring.
i had gotten the car to start after taking things out and putting them back in, raplacing some parts (crankshaft sensor) as you can read in the thread.
Then the car was stalling. Now when i took the computer out and put it back in it wont start anymore (wont give spark). i read that if camshaft sensor stopped signaling (or stopped being read), then the car would continue running but it wont start as it cant assign cylinder 1 to spark plug 1.
im hoping the new PCM will solve my nightmare.
check this thread out for PCM related problems in my year vehicle (even though its a different type of PCM because i have a sport cherokee and they are talking about grand cherokees):
http://forums.cnet.com/5208-6035_102-0.html?forumID=78&threadID=248386&start=0&tag=forum-w;forums06